Named for Queen Victoria’s long and illustrious reign, the Victorian era ushered in sweeping societal and technological changes - with jewelry design following in its wake. At the heart of it all was the original “It” girl, Queen Victoria, whose style choices had a ripple effect throughout her kingdom. From her serpent engagement ring to her fondness for opals and cameos, whatever Queen Victoria loved took root and blossomed into a cultural trend. Marked by the young Queen’s coronation and courtship with her beloved Prince Albert, the jewelry of the Romantic Period (1837-1860) drew cheerful inspiration from the natural world. Motifs rife with symbolic meaning - like serpents, flowers, and birds - were often rendered in rich yellow gold and embellished with colorful gemstones. The jewelry of this time was all handmade, but by 1852, advances in manufacturing, such as machine cut settings and early electroplating, made jewelry more widely available and affordable for all levels of society. But increased technology did not necessarily translate to a loss of signature Victorian Era sentimentality. The invention of the daguerrotype & ambrotype, early ancestors to the modern photograph, meant that treasured lockets could now hold realistic images of loved ones.

As the Victorian era progressed, changing personal and societal circumstances once again reshaped jewelry trends during The Grand Period (1861-1885). The death of Prince Albert in 1861 marked the beginning of a prolonged period of mourning for Queen Victoria and her country, where somber designs in jet, black onyx, and enamel dominated the jewelry landscape. Further afield, the discovery of plentiful diamond mines in South Africa flooded the market and made them more popular than ever, while the fascination with archeological excavations led to Greek, Egyptian, and Etruscan revivals. Quintessential Victorian designs like the gypsy ring and celestial themes took off during the Grand Period and remain some of the most enduringly popular pieces from the era.

The Victorian period drew to a close with the Aesthetic Movement (1885-1901) - a decided departure from the ornate designs of the earlier periods. Women were entering the workforce, politics, and taking up athletic leisure activities in greater numbers than ever before and needed more streamlined styles to keep up with their new lifestyle. Haircombs, demure brooches that doubled as pendants, and jewelry one could wear “on the move” were the hallmarks of the modern Gibson Girl. In other areas of Europe, Art Nouveau was taking root during this time, championing simple, organic designs infused with inspiration from Japanese art. Throughout these major stylistic changes, Victorian jewelry offers us a window into their world - whether through “hidden message” acrostic jewelry showing their sentimental side or striking scarab beetle motifs that shed light on their fascination with antiquity. The storytelling of Victorian jewelry simply can’t be beat.