As with the Art Nouveau Era that came before, the Art Deco period takes its name from an art exhibition in Paris: the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. This period between the two World Wars was a cocktail of fast-paced technological advances, lavish consumption, and artistic experimentation. It was a perfect recipe to transform the organic forms and refined platinum work celebrated during the Art Nouveau and Edwardian periods, streamlining them for the Deco Era’s decidedly modern embrace of sleek lines, geometric shapes, and angular sensibilities.

The step-cut diamond reigned supreme during this era. Emerald cuts, the recently patented Asscher cut, crisp carré cuts, and newly-created baguette cut were the geometric leading ladies of Art Deco jewelry. Set in platinum, these stones could be sleek, celebrated focal points or combined to form a glittering mosaic effect that mimicked the angular precision in the architecture of the time. Emeralds, rubies, and sapphires were favored for a pop of color, with newly-developed synthetic versions of the gems heralded as modern wonders. The start of the Art Deco Period also gave birth to the most popular stone used in modern jewelry - the Round Brilliant Diamond with its perfectly proportioned facets. In a feat of geometry, Belgian mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the proportions and angles to create the most brilliant, light-catching diamond cut possible.

As with other art forms, changes in society gave rise to new tastes and techniques in jewelry. Though Prohibition sought to reign in society through temperance, Flapper women were enjoying their taste of equality and were not looking to leave the party anytime soon. Women had earned the right to vote, had a greater presence in the workforce having filled the gaps left by men fighting WWI, and were free of the restrictive corsets and sensibilities of the generation that came before. Jewelry styles morphed to accommodate this new freer silhouette, and an assortment of beautifully ornamented accessories were created for sports and leisure - enameled compacts, diamond studded barettes, lighters, and more. To compliment the flapper’s narrow, sleek silhouette, extra-long beaded necklaces and tasseled “sautoirs” came into fashion. Perhaps one of the most iconic innovations of the Art Deco period and women’s newfound independence was the rise of the cocktail ring. Not only could women signify increased financial and societal independence through large gem and diamond rings worn on their right hand, but flashing the dazzling rings also operated as a secret signal to waiters to get this gal a drink!